3 ways to prepare for your first hammam

Travelling as a woman is exhausting. When travelling in Morocco, despite dressing conservatively, the locals could tell we were tourists from a mile off. They would flock to us, surround us, yelling ‘hey, sexy lady, good price for you!’, grabbing us by the elbow and trying to get us into their stall. Other men, on…

7 things I learned while camping

When I told my friend Louise I wanted to go camping, I immediately regretted it. Her eyes lit up. “I’m gonna make you poop in a hole,” she said, with an evil cackle. The experience was infinitely better than I expected. Not only did I have a whole lot of fun, I learned a bunch of…

How to be Portuguese

“Ob-ri-ga-da,” Louise said, over and over, as we exited the airport in Lisbon. “Obrigada! Obrigaadaaa.” “Maybe you can practice your Portuguese on these guys,” I suggested. I gestured towards the two men selling tickets to the bus into town. “Hi!” Louise said brightly. “Oh, I mean ola! Dos…” She hurriedly flipped through her little guidebook to…

Adventures in 2017, part 2 (July – December)

Check out Part 1 (January – June) here. July I don’t do the cold well. July is usually the worst month because the birthday festival is over yet there’s still no sign of warmer weather to come. July was a homebody month, where I tried to start a winter garden, dreamt of travel in the…

Ramadan in Morocco

This article was originally published on Youth Central. The siren signalling the end of fasting for the day echoed through the streets, followed by the eerie wail of the call to prayer. As soon as we heard it, my friend Louise and I covered up and went exploring to find some food. Once on the…

Roaming Rome by night and day

Originally published on Allora, Viterbo. At three am, the only sound around the Pantheon is the constant trickling of water in the piazza’s fountain. Bathed in orange light, I lie underneath the bronze doors, many times taller than I am, and contemplate the meaning of the word insignificance. I also know that, for this short…

The girls in the window (an encounter)

Originally published on Allora, Viterbo I’m walking down Via del Corso, my eyes set ahead on the Palazzo Comunale. A movement draws them away and up to the second storey of a bright yellow apartment building, where two young girls around eleven or twelve hang out the window looking down at the street. A middle-aged…

Beijing

From my diary: 15th April 2012- Beijing Arrived, snarky and bedraggled, and our crazy taxi driver nearly killed us on the way to our hotel. Imperial Courtyard Hotel in Beijing is in the Hutongs, a crazy mix of old style buildings and a hip shopping district and all at once exactly and nothing like what…

Culinary Adventures

A wriggling, splashing fish is thrust towards my face. The man holding the net grins at me with crooked yellow teeth and says something in his melodic language.